Why doesn't my Air Conditioning remove humidity?

Rule of thumb i was speaking of is very close and will be very close to the heat load on your house with out looking at each and every window which i can't see from here. Most new homes HVAC are designed by a mechical engineer. Specs are put in a blue print and the contractor does not have a choice he bids according to the specs. Sueing for oversized units would be hard, since it needs to be more than less. A typical 4000 sg ft home will need very close to 6.6 tons of cooling which means installing 7 tons of cooling. if your home has two systems it may be 7.5 tons of cooling is correct, So I wouldnt be concerned with the tonage unless you have less then 7 tons or more than 7.5. If it's a non typical 4000 sg ft then I'll check the blue prints and do what the mechnical enigeer said to do. So this goofball's rule of thumb is from 20 years of actually doing it. Sayin 16 seer is no clue how many tons were installed it's just a rating. Possible problems for high humditiy minimal drainage: A-coil is not colder than Dew Point. at 70 degrees 60% humdiditiy dew point is 58 degrees. You need 50 to 55 degree air across coil. Other possible problems for high humidity : improper vent in bathrooms. Now the first tech says yea too big. You haven't said how big they are. third guy calls me a goofball and you need J load. Thinks the blower is set to high. LOL. It's suppose to be on High for cooling. Low or medium for heat. BTW the J is based on average yearly temp so hotter years or colder years the Jload is a little off but it's a very good rule of thumb to go by. If you go thru a subdivision of 3,000 sg ft homes they all have 5 ton units 1200 sg homes they all have 2 ton units um go figure.